Pillowcase Dress Tutorial

Alright, here is the first tutorial on our blog for 2011. I will say that even if you are new to sewing you can make this in about 2 hours. After you’ve made just one, you will be able to do it in under an hour. I did make a few simple mistakes on the first one I made for Lil’ A. I am not going to go into detail about them, instead, I am going to tell you in one simple step how to avoid them.

Pre-measure the wearer and write these measurements down! Why: Because the next time you sew, or maybe this time when you are trying to replicate this pattern, your wearer will be sleeping. One time I even tip toed into Lil’A’s room and measured her in her crib. Well that doesn’t work too well because she isn’t standing up. Measure their height, measure from shoulder to where you’d want a dress to hit(in the back, especially if they wear diapers still), and waist. These are the measurements that I have found vary in online patterns. I haven’t done anything other than skirts & dresses, so these are my recommendations for those. For pants, I’d also measure inseam.

On to the tutorial:

I found this tutorial as I was searching the internet for a better explanation than what I’d seen on YouTube. I didn’t really want to use an actual pillow case, so when I saw this I knew it was worth following.

The one adjustment I made was that instead of using ribbon, I made my own tie. Just one, so that it ties on one side only. I liked the way it looked and had seen the “Quints By Surprise” on TLC wear a similar dress this way on a snippet of Oprah last week. (And no, I don’t watch Oprah regularly. I’d taped it because in flipping through the guide, I’d seen the Jones family was on.)

Materials:

3/4 metre cotton for main panel of dress (I chose a pattern)

3/4 metre cotton for bottom band of dress, bias tape, & tie (I chose a solid red)

Matching thread

Sewing Machine, scissors, ruler, cutting mat & rotating cutter, chalk or other marking tool, pins

Directions:

Step 1: Cut your fabric

I am going to tell you how to do it, not how I did it, since I figured out the better way after the fact. If you don’t have the wearer close by, use the chart that is on the link above and add an inch or two to insure longevity of the dress.

Fold both fabrics so that their selveges match.

-Pattern Fabric: Measure from the shoulders to where you want the dress to fall. Mine is two inches below the knees. Subtract 6 inches from that. This is how much you will cut for the pattern/top fabric.

-Bottom Band: Cut an 8″ band (6″ if dress is for a child under 2), the fold being away from you, selvages closest to you.

-Cut 2 4″ wide bands for the ties

-Cut 1 2″ band for the bias tape (I do not do mine on the bias and it always works for me-however that isn’t technical-so if you prefer to do it the real way, open your fabric and cut a strip on the bias. You need about 20″ or less.)

Now you should have this:

Step 2: Arm holes

Fold the patterned fabric in half again so that the fold and selvages meet. Turn the fabric so that the fold you just created is on your left.

Mark with a pin 2″ in from the selvage/fold side. Mark with a pin 3.5″ down from the top (I made mine 4″-use your discretion based on your wearer.)

Connect these two markings using your chalk with a curve. Cut along this line. Make sure before you cut that you aren’t cutting through the chest-i.e. that you’ve folded everything correctly.

Step 3: Adding the Bottom Band

Fold and press the band fabric for the bottom of your dress in half  length wise, wrong sides together, so you have one long strip. You should go from it being 8″ to 4″. Pin to the bottom of the pattern fabric right side to right side. Raw edges of band should be pinned to the raw edge of the bottom of the patterned fabric.

Sew using 1/2″ inseam. I did zig zag all of my stitches except where I will note.

Step 4: Putting the dress together

Right sides together, match up and sew, then zig zag stitch (if you have a server just serge the edges. I found it easier and less puckering to do it sew, then zig zag.

Step 5: Bias Tape

Make your bias tape by folding/pressing it in half length wise. Unfold. Fold in one side to meet the middle crease and press. Do the same to the other side. Fold them together (should be just under 1″ wide) press.

Pin the tape to the arm holes. Some people serge/zig zag stitch the holes first. I didn’t.

Sew.

Step 6: Make the tie

Fold the tie fabric in half lengthwise right sides together. Press.

Lay the tie folded in half along the top of the dress. I even tied it in a bow so that I could see how long it was. You don’t want the ends to fall to long or it will be in the way of the wearer’s play. I took off about 20″ from the tie. From this, re-tie it and mark where the tie will be hidden in the back so that you can have that as your starting point to sew the tie closed once you’ve turned it right side out. This way, you don’t have to do any hand sewing.

Sew closed, starting in the point you marked, go to the end of the tube, sew an angle at the end (so that the tie will have a finished look to it)

Start at the marked point again, leaving a 2″ opening from your last start and sew the other way to the end and create another angle at the opposite end.

Turn right side out. Press. Get the points as pointy as you can.

Edge stitch the opening closed. You won’t see it as it will be in the back of the dress. You can edge stitch around the whole tie. I didn’t.

Step 7: Casting for Tie

As you will notice from the photos, it was getting late. Sorry about that!

Zig Zag stitch the top of the dress. Front, then back. Fold over 1.25″ and press. If you just use ribbon instead of a tie, you can just turn it over 1″.

Sew closed.

Step 8: Inserting the Tie

Fold over the end of the tie and insert a safety pin (large one) to push it through both the back casting and front casting. One shoulder will have a strap made, the other will be a tie strap.

Step 9: The End!

Tie the bow & you’re done!

Resist the urge to wake up the wearer! Hang on a hanger and take a few photos! Post your finished project on our Facebook site or e-mail them to me and with your permission, we will post them in our photo section (krystle@daisysgarden.ca)

As I was finishing putting this tutorial together, I already thought of a great variation! A Sash! Stay tuned for details!

Enjoy your weekend!

Krystle

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